Part 2: Mid Wales and North Wales

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You might think there's not much in Mid Wales - and you'd be absolutely right. However, that is the charm of the area. This secret, sparsely-populated wilderness is a land of rolling, green mountains, and isolated, dramatic lakes; a land of mysterious forests and groaning wind farms. For a peaceful, "get-away-from-it-all" short break, Mid Wales might be ideal. Just don't go there for the nightlife.

Lake Vyrnwy is the most dramatic of the Welsh lakes. Hidden in the heights of the Berwyn Mountains, it has inky-black waters and is surrounded by high pine forests. A gothic water tower adds to the mystery. The baronial Lake Vyrnwy Hotel stands slightly forbidding and austerely over the lake. What makes the hotel unique is the astounding views of the lake. Splash out on one of the spacious superior rooms complete with balcony and survey your estate. Or try horse riding through the beautiful, tranquil valleys surrounding the nearby Ceiriog river.

Rhayader would make a good base to explore the Elan Valley. The Elan Valley contains four reservoirs (with awesome Victorian dams) which supply Birmingham. The Elan Valley Hotel offers breaks for cycling, fishing, birdwatching, mountain biking, and fungi forays. Another great place to stay would be to take a cottage at the Nannerth Fawr farm complex. The farm allows the kids to play with the animals, and you have a choice of highest-quality accommodation including the Tollant, a converted hay-loft which featured on BBC's Holiday 2004 programme.

Three miles up the road you can view one of Britain's best wildlife spectacles. Mid Wales is Kite Country - the home of the magnificent, rare red kite. In the 1930s the red kite was hunted to extinction in England and Scotland, and there were only two pairs left in Mid Wales. Now a protection programme has resulted in 120 carefully-monitored pairs in Wales. Hurrah! See red kites swooping down to feed at Gigrin Farm, or go on a Mid Wales adventure with Red Kite Safaris.

The pretty town of Llanidloes is centred on its striking market hall built in 1600. Four miles away is the beautiful Llyn Clywedog reservoir featuring Britain's tallest dam (237ft).

Take the road from Llanidloes to Machynlleth and you will pass through the spectacular Dylife Gorge. A panoramic viewpoint (it has been called "the best view in the world") on the road two miles west of Dylife is dedicated to the broadcaster and author Wynford Vaughan-Thomas. In the distance you can see Machynlleth and the huge peak of Cadair Idris - the edge of Snowdonia.

Travelling to the coastal resorts of Cardigan Bay you find the town of Aberystwyth, the only biggish town for miles around and the "capital" of the region. The town is dominated by the university which ensures a very lively nightlife. Constitution Hill overshadows the northern end of the promenade, and you can find the world's largest camera obscura on top (creates a birds eye view of 1000 square miles of land around Aberystwyth). If you don't fancy the walk, take the clanking 1896 Cliff Railway up the hill.

A recommended hotel is the cool, contemporary boutique Harbourmaster Hotel situated in a prime position on the quayside of the fishing village of Aberaeron.

Further up the coast at Tywyn you will find the Talyllyn Railway with charming historic steam locomotives which will take you over seven miles along the beautiful and unspoilt Fathew valley - all made possible because of the efforts of enthusiastic volunteers.

In Machynlleth you will find the Centre for Alternative Technology was founded in the middle of the 1974 oil crisis. This popular attraction is also a living community which produces 80 percent of its own power from wind, sun (!), and water (the water I can believe ...). The centre aims to show how sustainable energy could be used in urban situations. You arrive on the site by a 200ft water-powered cliff railway (not open in the winter). A fascinating day out, nicely in tune with the laid-back, eco-friendly Mid Wales vibe.

More Mid Wales links:
Visit Mid Wales
Mid Wales lakes and mountains
Ceredigion - Cardigan Bay

Snowdonia is the crowning glory of Wales. It is a land of breathtaking grandeur, perhaps the most beautiful region in the whole of Britain. You will encounter awesome rocky mountains and cool, leafy river glades; high, winding passes, and lakes full of myths and legends.

If you happen to be in Snowdonia in bad weather (quite possible!), don't despair: it's the only place I have ever been which looks better in less-than-perfect weather. You can imagine the peaks of the mountains, disappearing into the cloud, as rising forever. Grey mist brings ancient mystery to the rocky valleys. It doesn't look anything like so remarkable in bright, sunny weather. Tennyson said he had never seen "anything more aweful (i.e., awesome) than the great veil of rain drawn straight over Cader Idris".

Snowdonia is fab. You'll love it.

The centrepiece of Snowdonia is, of course, Snowdon. The highest mountain in England and Wales is small by international standards, but that doesn't tell the story (see here!). See the picture on the left: it's a fabulous mountain, carved by glacial ice to create a series of challenging ridges - it's a walker's paradise. You could try a walking holiday organised by High Trek.

There are various and varied routes up Snowdon, routes to suit every ability (though you have to be fit for them all). And the mountain is just the right height so you can get up and down in a day.

A word of warning, however: these mountains can be dangerous, and people seem to die every year on Snowdon. Take warm clothing, strong boots, and a good map. A mobile phone is no substitute for proper equipment.

Let's consider the routes to the summit, in increasing order of scariness ...

The easiest (but dullest) route to the summit follows the path of the Snowdon Mountain Railway (Britain's only rack-and-pinion railway, built in 1896) from Llanberis. Don't walk this Llanberis Path unless you are really scared of heights because it's just a long plod.

A much better route is the Miner's Track from Pen-Y-Pass. Walk to the ruins of the old copper mines next to Llyn Llydaw. Follow the route up to Llyn Glaslyn, and then keep going up!

The Watkin Path starts deceptively easily. From Bethania Bridge, three miles northeast of Beddgelert, you start with a delightful stroll through oak woods, continuing in a similar vein past a series of waterfalls. You pass the slate works to Gladstone Rock, where the Prime Minister opened the path in 1892. "There's nothing to this", you think, until the reach the steep, rocky face of the mountain. The climb scared me stiff when I first did it (my first ascent of Snowdon).

The best route involves a traverse of the knife-edge ridge of Crib Goch. Take a look at the photo on the left which I took before making the traverse: you can see a human traffic jam: people holding on to the top of the ridge and inching their way across. Poor things look petrified - after all, there is a 1,000-foot drop on both sides.

However, when we did the traverse we just walked straight across the top of the ridge in nonchalant fashion (I was rather more experienced on the mountains by that time). I'd recommend you take the same approach if you have the guts as I reckon it's much less scary than the "inching" approach (try not to slip, though ... and don't risk this in winter!).

When you reach the summit of Snowdon after traversing Crib Coch you can continue onwards to walk the Snowdon Horseshoe. The Snowdon Horseshoe is considered one of the finest ridge walks in Europe, comprising an anticlockwise circuit from Crib Goch to Snowdon, then to the summit of Y Lliwedd (the panorama at the top of this section shows the Horseshoe ridges very clearly). I did this once and was cream-crackered at the end, but it's a tremendous walk if you're fit.

To the immediate north of Snowdon lies another outstanding mountain range: the Glyders. The Glyders are notable for the chaotic jumble of rocks on their summits. On the summit of Glyder Fach you will find the famous cantilevered rock (see here).

Also in the Glyders you will find the "other" famous Snowdonian mountain: Tryfan. I've never climbed Tryfan but I am told it is very rewarding: short and steep with great views. At the summit you will find the two large rocks Adam and Eve, surrounded by precipitous drops on all sides. It is possible to jump the five-foot gap between the rocks.

You might choose picturesque Betws-y-Coed as your base in Snowdonia, though Beddgelert tucked away at the base of majestic mountain scenery might prove more central (the top hotel there is the Royal Goat Hotel).

For something completely different, try the Italianate village Portmeirion, which became famous as the setting for TV's The Prisoner. For a touch of class during your stay in Snowdonia, why not stay at "one of the most picturesque of all the summer residences to be found on the sea-coast of Wales": Hotel Portmeirion.

If you want to see all of Snowdonia's marvels you will have to travel underground (a good idea if the weather is dodgy!). In the Sygun Copper Mine in the beautiful Gwynant valley you can explore the winding tunnels and large chambers, discovering copper ore veins which contain traces of gold, silver, and other precious metals. Elsewhere, the multi award-winning Llechwedd Slate Caverns present a choice of two spectacular rides into underground caverns of cathedral-like proportions. In the Deep Mine tour you descend on Britain's steepest passenger railway to a series of son et lumière presentations.

One of the most pleasant and leisurely ways to see the scenery is to take a trip on one of the many delightful narrow gauge steam trains in the area - the Great Little Trains of Wales. The Welsh Highland Railway takes you on a 12-mile route from the coast at Caernarfon past lakes, mountains, and forests to the slopes of Snowdon. The Ffestiniog Railway takes you on a 13-mile route from Porthmadog up into the mountains to Blaenau Ffestiniog. The Llanberis Lake Railway offers a picturesque lakeside trip along the shores of Padarn Lake at the foot of Snowdon.

More Snowdonia links:
Snowdonia National Park
Snowdonia Mountains and Coast
Snowdonia Wales Net
Snowdonia Information and Accommodation
Attractions of Snowdonia
Dave Newbould's Snowdonia Photography

The mountainous interior of North Wales has pushed most of the major towns to the coast. There you will find an eclectic and fascinating mix of modern seaside resorts and the most historic, ancient towns in Wales.

Starting in the east, you first encounter Rhyl, an old-style seaside resort in the style of Blackpool: amusement arcades, candy floss, and fish and chips. If you have young children then they might love it as there would be plenty for them to do. You could try the SeaQuarium where you can experience a seabed stroll in the first and only walk-through underwater tunnel in Wales, surrounded by sharks, rays and other fascinating ocean creatures. Or take the kids to the Rhyl Sun Centre, an indoor tropical water park where you can enjoy the warm waters or the white rollers and the water slides, including the daredevil Black Thunder and Buzz slides. Perhaps ride the rooftop monorail before a meal or drink on the terrace.

As you move west (away from Liverpool?) things get notably classier. Colwyn Bay is a pleasant (though unexciting) Victorian seaside town. The super Mountain Zoo is situated in the hills behind the town with panoramic views. Spend a perfect day at this family friendly attraction in the company of rare and endangered animals from around the world including tigers, monkeys, and ostriches. Don't miss the penguin parade, sealion shows and the chimp encounter.

Keep going west and you get to ...

... Llandudno. The "Queen of Welsh Resorts" is terrific, and would make an ideal holiday destination. Llandudno is situated on the grand sweep of Llandudno Bay. It has retained its Victorian elegance, and this is reflected in its promenade lined by grand hotels such as the modestly-named Empire, or the Imperial, or the St. Tudno.

That Victorian character is continued in the graceful pier, and the wrought-iron canopies of the shops along Llandudno's main streets.

Llandudno has a remarkable natural feature: the towering limestone rock of the Great Orme - reminiscent of Gibraltar - can be found at the end of the bay. Marine Drive, cut high into the cliffs, allows you to drive the circuit around the rock. Breathtaking views can be obtained from the summit which can be reached by the longest cable-operated tramway in Britain (pretend you're in San Francisco), or by cable car. Afterwards, ski back down the Great Orme on the longest dry slope in Britain.

Llandudno has got it all.

As you continue west from Llandudno, the very nature of Wales changes dramatically: the modern resorts give way to ancient, historic towns. This has always been the "Welshest" part of Wales - the Welsh-speaking heartland. Here, Welsh is the first language of 60% of the local people (learn a few phrases here).

As you cross the water of the Conwy estuary from the north you get a marvellous view of fairytale Conwy. This is a delightful walled town with many attractions, set in a magnificent location. The mountains of Snowdonia now make an appearance, providing a perfect backdrop to the magnificent castle. You might try a visit to the smallest house in Britain, or take a walk along the castle's old town walls, one of the finest and most complete sets in Europe. I took the panorama on the left from the top of one of the towers on Conwy Castle.

Moving south down the stunning Conwy Valley you will find the splendid 80-acre Bodnant Garden. A spectacular show of colour from spring (camellias, magnolias, daffodils, rhododendrons) through to the golden autumnal foliage makes this a must for the garden addict.

Continuing westwards you encounter the massive neo-Norman fantasy of Penrhyn Castle. It was built in the early 1800s, funded by the slate fortunes of the Pennant family. The vast interior resembles a cathedral.

The Castles of Edward I

The magnificent castles of King Edward I date back to the 13th century, a time when Wales ruled itself under the then Prince of Wales, Llywelyn ap Gryffudd. For many years, Wales and England had lived under an uneasy truce: Wales was allowed effective self-rule in return for homage and money payments. Llywelyn, however, refused to kowtow to King Edward and stopped the payments. Finally, Edward had had enough and decided to put the upstart Prince in his place.

Edward mobilised a huge army of 15,000 men, vastly superior to the forces at Llywelyn's disposal. Llywelyn suffered a heavy defeat, and his Welsh army was forced back to its Snowdonian heartland. Llywelyn broke out to the south, but in December 1282 he was killed in a battle in Mid Wales.

Edward, keen to consolidate his position, commenced an ambitious programme of castle-building designed to overawe the Welsh. In a breathtaking period of construction, magnificent castles were built at Conwy, Caernarfon, and Harlech (see the pictures at the top of this section).

Harlech is notable for its imposing position on a high bluff. Once the sea lapped around the base of the cliff, though the tide has long since receded. The first English Prince of Wales was born to Edward in Caernarfon Castle in 1284. This role of the castle as the palace of a new dynasty of princes was continued when the castle was chosen as the setting for the Investiture of the present Prince of Wales in 1969.

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